breadboard

Entering a large electronic project usually requires the use of specialized tools, that is, using some kind of soldering iron or other means to apply solder to the usually complex, tiny and heat-sensitive parts. Although it is best to learn this skill at some point, it is not always necessary, even for large and complex projects like [DerULF1] a complete 8-bit computer built entirely on a breadboard.
For a fully functional 8-bit computer, this version has an in-depth understanding of how the computer works. The clock allows the program to execute one cycle at a time, and it can even access the memory individually through a set of switches. There are many other interesting functions, such as using registers to access additional memory. It has an SPI port and a PS/2 keyboard controller, and it can also load programs from an SD card.
The build was inspired by some projects by [Ben Eater] that famously focused on using logic gates and TTL chips to perform complex tasks, such as another breadboard computer that played snakes on a small display. This is of course a good way to understand the internal functions of the computer, and it is better to not need welding. But you may need some extra breadboards.
Considering that some breadboard contacts are prone to failure, this will be a hell for hardware debugging. I will not try this myself, even if the wiring is 100% correct, I still have something that doesn't work. Cheers to DerULF1!
Oops. When dealing with small breadboard projects, I even have some small annoyances! I would not try this myself.
There is an incredible difference between the brand name $10 BB830 motherboard and the $2 appearance, which is a lesson I learned from my own Ben Eater CPU build.
Although my system is simpler than the one here (only 16 boards), the Bus Board brand has surprisingly few connection problems. The upper left corner is 5.0v, and the lower right corner is still 4.95v.
However, cheap boards are a very different story! When inserting the wire, you can actually feel the internal clamp deform and "snap" apart. It is almost certain that the clip will never make reasonable contact with anything else inserted in the future, and if the lead does not maintain a perfect 180 or 90 degrees, it will not remain in contact with the first inserted part for a long time. They may feel that you are saving money, but the reality is often to either throw things away, or buy brand-name boards (anything wasted on cheap boards), or accept the coming crazy and random behavior.
I basically don't make breadboards these days. This is a lot of work and did not find the main source of errors, that is, the schematics do not explain what you think they do, unless you are very careful and have some kind of cross-checking process between the breadboard and the CAD.
I'm not entirely sure what kind of problems I will even look for on the breadboard that the emulator can't find.
What a lovely piece. I would be scared-a wire dropped-but where does it belong? After debugging, I found a small... in the description of Control(l)er...
As everyone here knows, Burkhard Kainka went in a different direction: use as few components as possible: 3 switches, 5 LEDs, and a Micro and a battery. No PC, no assembler, no compiler, no linker—only your brain and you can start programming—everything is 4-bit, all hexadecimal. I encountered this TPS error about 6 years ago.
Program and do all the work on paper. it works. Have fun and browse the facebook page where I posted some extensions of the Burkhard project https://www.facebook.com/groups/269499491046124
"I will be afraid-a wire is dropped-but where does it belong?" The construction will often make you very familiar with every last bit and signal in the system, not only the final result, but also every component, IC And the effect of the door. A broken wire is one of the easier things to debug.
Going the other route you mentioned is the main problem of disconnection. For example, that miniature is a very huge "black box". What is the end result of saying "b register output enabled" and disconnecting the microcode? How many parts of the code consist of that line? Without it, how many other components would fail?
The hardware construction allows you to gradually execute each microcode stage in each clock cycle, and you can directly see that the "BO" signal is high, but the contents of the B register are not displayed on the data bus. Right there you see it must be the wire connecting the two! Hope if nothing else, this can serve as your impetus++
This is well done-you really didn't cut corners. I have been an amateur for about 50 years and can only think of one or two intermittent or short-circuited solderless breadboards unless I abuse it. Keep the wire size around 24-26, they are very good.
"Do nothing, if Tetris won't run."-Love it! Very good item (and smooth horizontal LCD Tetris).
I must be the last hobbyist who is still building prototypes using winding methods. I know, because the winding is the last item in Fry's inventory.
Seriously, the wire-wound socket on the perforated board provides you with a durable board. You can easily make changes and correct errors. No heat is involved.
You can design the entire layout as a PC board on a 0.1 inch grid, print it on paper (mirror), paste it on the perforated board, and start winding. If you need SMD components, put them on an adapter with long pins. You can insert resistors, capacitors, LEDs and connect wires to their long leads, or even solder them together, dead-worm style.
The socket may be expensive, but for only $20, you can get a hand tool and one color wire (I use red, black, blue, and yellow). Altex Electronics sells in stores like major distributors. Obtaining automatic tools is much more difficult, but you can find bargains on second-hand guns.
Winding is a home method where you can easily make equal-length cable pairs. The connection is corrosion-free and can be used for decades.
https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/wire_wrap_is_alive_and_well https://hackaday.com/2018/05/04/ask-hackaday-whatever-happened-to-wire-wrapping/
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